Kai Iwi Lakes and north

The Northern Wairoa river is New Zealand's 'great greygreen greasy Limpopo' of Rudyard Kipling's famous stories. I have never seen it anything other than brown and sluggish as it slowly pushes past Dargaville to enter the Kaipara just past Ruawai. I used to visit this area once a fortnight in another life, calling on growers of kumara (sweet potato) for which the area is justly famous. 40 years later, seemingly nothing much has changed, the town buildings are the same, the small farm cottages dotted around the flat landscape, the TokaToka pub - a favourite watering hole for the 1960's motley crew of commercial travellers - all still there. I found it quite settling really that some things don't change when other parts of our lives seem to change with alarming speed. There's nothing to keep us in Ruawai except for a quick visit to the wharf which is situated at the 'no exit' end of the main street, just past the hard right hand turn which puts you on the road to Dargaville, about 30kms north. The road follows a picturesque route along the banks of the Wairoa, past TokaToka and through mixed farming country. Dargaville is on the other side of the river reached via a substantial bridge after which a left turn takes you into the town centre a few minutes away. There are some lovely old pubs and other public buildings in Dargaville - The Northern Wairoa, The Central and the original post office. The Northern Wairoa has undergone some rennovation, the Central hasn't and unfortunately both are adorned with monstrous liquor advertisements which greatly detract from their unique features. 

The only cafe in town for a great coffee and food prepared in their kitchen is 'Blah,Blah,Blah'. You can't miss it in the main street, lefthand side heading north. After enjoying our coffees and a walnut and maple muffin we went in search of our night's accomodation  near the Kai Iwi Lakes, on the way making a detour to the wild west coast Baylys beach, about 15 kms from Dargaville. Well worth the visit as this beach stretches from the Kaipara north head to the southern Hokianga heads and is wide open to the Tasman Sea. After an hour's walk, on to Wai Hou Oma Lodge, about 20kms further on near Kai Iwi.

Wai Hou Oma is a lovely, tranquil 7 acre haven with several different sized 'lodges'. All are modern with up to date kitchen and bathroom facilites. The views over the small lakes with water lilies combined with the elegant manicured grounds create a calming vista from your lodge terrace. Guest privacy is strongly protected by strategic, mature native plantings and unobtrusive fences. Ruby, one of the partners, is an accomplished artist and some of her enigmatic, colorful works adorn the lodge walls. The lodges are pet friendly by arrangement and Tammy, our wire haired dachshund, loved every minute. As soon as we arrived we wished we were staying longer - one day or one week - relaxation takes over on arrival.

Our destination the next night was Opononi (Opo the crazy dolphin of the 1950s), not so far to drive but a few things to see on the way. After breakfast and sadly saying a bientot to Wai Hou Oma our first stop was the Taharoa Domain which encompasses the Kai Iwi Lakes. What a horrible shock as we drove down towards Pine beach. It is now like a moonscape, denuded, but studded with pine tree stumps - awful! What was a lovely shaded, secluded camp ground, is now an open scrub covered, sun scoured desert. Scattered native plantings can be seen but these are small and will take decades to afford the shade and tranquillity of the chainsawed pines. We left quickly.

We were soon entering the Waipoua forest which is very dense and full of kauri at all stages of growth. We had been this way before so did not stop at Tane Mahuta - the giant 1200 year old kauri - but did drive down to the Waipoua information centre. We parked riverside, a charming restful spot, raised the roof and brewed our coffee. A peaceful hour went by and we could recover from the Kai Iwi Pine beach awfulness. Soon out of the forest and to Waimamaku where we fondly remembered Morrells cafe. Just after 4 and they were still open. We didn't need another coffee but had to stop for old times sake. A good decision.

Over the hill to Omapere and the incredible view of the Hokianga harbour entrance bar never fails to take your breath away. The large rollers breaking at the entrance, the enormous dune on the north head, golden yellow, glowing in the afternoon sun. The Hokianga district seems untouched by modernity and it is this timelessness which appeals so strongly. We had found a little Opononi motel (The Lighthouse) which was happy to welcome Tammy and we were soon settling into our comfortable unit. Not the standard of the previous night but clean and quiet. I'll tell you about the shower later.

It was going to be light for a while yet and a walk to the lookout which gives a wonderful view of the bar and the North head of Hokianga harbour was tempting us. We had done this before but the panorama from the vantage point is so outstanding its impossible to resist. We arrived at the small carpark about 10 minutes later. A group of overseas tourists were just leaving which left us as the only visitors. Right by the entrance to the lookout walk a trio of young women around a rough looking vehicle were drawing attention to themselves with bad language, dope smoking and loud music. We did not want to leave our vehicle unattended as we feared a breakin so we waited 15 or 20 minutes thinking they would probably move on. No such luck - so a beach walk tonight and a lookout return in the morning.

Dinner that night was at the original Opononi Hotel where we had stayed with our children nearly 30 years ago. We were a bit uncertain as we were the only guests for a start but the dinner was a very pleasant surprise. 2 other tables joined the room later and we returned to the Lighthouse after a couple of hours very satisfied and impressed. If you're in the area, do have a dinner at the hotel - you'll love it. An interesting sign is above the door to the public bar declaring; 'Helping white men dance since 1835' and the original Opo statue is at the front of the hotel carpark.

The shower - 8/10 on start, 1/10 on finish. You must be very quick, otherwise soap and no water! Maybe a 'Helen Clark' water saving showerhead!                                                                                                  

Today we had planned a run to Cape Reinga but after a bit of map checking and simple arithmatic concluded it was too ambitious and could await another day. The day started with a breakfast attempt at the Omapere Copthorne but, alas, too late. There was no staff available to make us even a coffee although one of the reception did offer after she had finished her primary duties. The offer was a bit perfunctory and I did quietly wonder what her barista skills might be? Linda had read about Schooner cafe - on the hill overlooking Omapere and the harbour so this was our breakfast choice. We fell right on our feet here. Excellent coffee, scrambled eggs and toast, prepared and served with charm by two filles Francaises. A big bonus was the small deck, complete with shady umbrellas and an unsurpassed view of the harbour, where we could bring little Tammy. A couple of local newspapers were on hand which were read whilst enjoying a second coffee.  Instead of our original Cape Reinga idea - much to ambitious -  we lunched at Rawene; Boatshed Cafe of course, and they were still serving their wonderful, baked, Thai style flounder. Very tasty and washed down with a local Okahu pinot. The new plan is to cross on the car ferry and take the semi coastal road to Ahipara and Kaitaia.

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